Read on for one of my spins on the traditional Moscow Mule: No Sugar Added Fig Moscow Mule. Today marks the first day of week full of fig recipes! Enjoy!
The short story? I love putting my own twist on my favorite drink, the Moscow Mule. For this version, I challenged myself to create a simple syrup of sorts with no added sugar. It not only was delicious: it looks beautiful too! I originally put it in the traditional mule copper mug, but that beautiful color was begging to be seen!
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Now for the long(er) story. If you follow me on instagram, you know that I’ve recently become a bit fig-obsessed. If you don’t follow me on instagram, you may not know that we’ve moved to California. From Pittsburgh, to Boston to the Bay. I’ll definitely share more of a life update soon, but instead of dragging my feet and making excuses to post anything at all to the blog: I’m going to jump right in and post this drink recipe.
As I mentioned above, I love Moscow Mules. Love. Them. I love when restaurants have their signature twist on them, and I love doing the same with what we have on hand. What do I have a lot of currently? FIGS!
How No Sugar Added Fig Moscow Mules Came to Be
My challenge for this drink was to create a simple syrup of sorts without adding any sugar. I’m definitely not an expert: can it still be called a simple syrup? I’m not totally sure, but this beautiful bright pink of the drink comes from cooking down figs and champagne grapes with mint leaves. Don’t have champagne grapes? No worries! Grapes of any kind (I’d halve them first) or even plums would do the drink and give you a similar, light and summery take on the classic Moscow Mule. It’s also excellent with just a little extra ginger beer — leave out the vodka altogether. Mocktails are definitely a summer staple for me!
A few of my favorite Moscow Mule-making supplies are linked below. While I would typically say that a copper mug is a must, for this version – I’d skip it! Show off the pretty color and use whatever clear glass you have on hand. I absolutely LOVE my because the top doubles as a measuring cup – maybe they all do this? Ha! I tend to live under a rock these days.
These delicious drinks were the result of a personal challenge: create a light, summer drink with a simple syrup made from fruit alone. It's delicious, balanced - and not too sweet!
Course
Drinks
Keyword
drinks, mocktail, moscow mule, no sugar, paleo
Prep Time5minutes
Cook Time10minutes
Total Time15minutes
Servings2drinks
AuthorKacia | Coconut Robot
Ingredients
Fig and Fruit Syrup
2cupsWater
2Figsquartered
1cupChampagne Grapesswap in: plums (quartered) or grapes (halved)
5leavesMintmuddled/bruised/ripped
Drink Ingredients
1-2ozVodka
1/2limeroughly one tablespoon
Ginger Beerdepends on glass size/mocktail/preference
3leavesMint
1/4Figsliced
1/3cupIce
Instructions
Fig and Fruit Syryup
Combine water, figs, grapes and mint to a small sauce pan over medium heat.
As fruit softens, smash with a wooden spoon. Simmer for roughly 10 minutes, uncovered to allow liquid to reduce.
Remove from heat and allow to cool.
Put it All Together
In your cocktail shaker, add vodka, lime, half of your fruit syrup and ice.
Pour into your cup or mug of choice, top with ginger beer.
Finish with a fresh mint leaf and a fig slice.
Enjoy!
I’d love to hear what you think! I’ll be sharing more fig recipes this week — pizza, burgers and more drinks. I can’t get enough of these figs, and I also refuse to let them go to waste. It also will keep me accountable to get these posted and to you all!
Good morning! I have another felt flower tutorial for you today! Below I have for you all the materials listed along with the step-by-step video tutorial! This daffodil is one I’m definitely most excited to share – you can use some of the petal variations on other flowers as well to show wear and tear and just irregularities that you find with flowers. You can check out my last felt flower post here – and subscribe to my YouTube channel to be the first to know when a new video is posted! Life definitely hit me hard this past month as we battled everyone getting sick at one time or another — spring, please stick around and leave the sickness at bay!
I think the less perfect they are, the better they look.
This felt flower daffodil using 2, 1.5″ strips of felt cut from a 9×12 sheet, thick floral wire for the stem and 2, .75″ strips of green felt for the leaves along with thin floral wire. I have all the supplies linked for you down below.
Thanks for checking out today’s tutorial! Like I mentioned in my last flower post, be sure to let me know what flowers you’d like to have me tackle next! Dahlias have been requested a few times in the last week, so those have been climbing on my to-do list! It’s a fun challenge, so throw the flower types at me!
I hope your spring is off to a great start! Besides the coyote that won’t leave our yard…UGH….we are loving the warm weather around here!
ACK! I have been waiting to spill the beans on this quilt for what feels like forever! I originally made a version of this quilt for my friend Kate’s baby boy — I couldn’t sleep one night and thought,
what if I made a quilt with the instructions for folding a paper airplane!?!?
I made the quilt and shared a photo I had of it with the editors of Generation Q. We started a conversation about getting the pattern in one of their 2014 issues….and long hours later of working out the pattern and ironing out the details….
I’m definitely a “make it work” person when I’m working on a single, custom quilt — especially when a quilt involves weird math and angles like this one! It has super simple aspects, and it has a lot of sections that require a bit of focus and attention to detail. So as I reworked the quilt with a patternin mind, it was a whole new ballgame! But finishing this pattern has definitely given me a kick in the rear to get my other patterns OUT of my moleskins and into y’all’s hands!
I had a little bit of fun with the back! I paper pieced a smaller version of the large and finished airplane — I love how the back turned out! It really could be a simple quilt of its own.
If you’re wondering if I’m already planning on trying to crank out some of those, you read my mind and guessed correctly. :) I might do a flash sale via instagram, if I can get my act together…. you know, being due in 3 weeks and all …and having a to-do list that’s a mile long…sure! Haha, we shall see!
Yes. Completely embarrassing myself.
That is a 36 week and pregnant woman jumping in the air because, well, freaking out.
Thank you ALL for your constant encouragement and support — and ridiculous amount of patience as let my perfectionism get in the way of just getting these patterns to you all! I cannot WAIT to see finished versions of this quilt!
Off to get my quilt idea for baby boy out of my head and hopefully into reality!
psst! I’ll be using #CRairplaneQuilt for my posts with this quilt and other colorways! Please tag me (@CoconutRobot), so I can see! And always feel free to email me with questions!
Back in March, I received an email from Heather asking if I would be interested in taking on a commissioned baby onesie quilt for her son. Heather received my information from a girl I went to college with, who now works at Heather’s company. I seriously love how small the world can be.
Speaking of small, I called the Honest Company on Monday to cancel my pre-natal subscription, and after ending the phone call I received a text from a girl who is from Pittsburgh. She now works at Honest Company and said, “you just called and talked to my coworker!” Seriously. This world is weird.
Okay. Pregnancy tangents, let’s get back to it.
Heather emailed me in March with a request:
Could I make a baby onesie quilt for her son’s first birthday in June using his onesies she’d saved since he was a baby.
And because I like to take on things I’ve never done before — I said yes. :)
We talked about design ideas and possibilities and settled on a simple block quilt — simple and clean. Heather was coming to Pittsburgh that following weekend, so she dropped off a bag of onesies at my house.
And here I am to confess: the onesies sat in the bag until the end of April. I was swamped with projects and commitments that I needed to complete, but I was also terrified to cut up these onesies! Making a quilt out of something as precious as these pieces of clothing scared me a little bit. Okay, a lot a bit. I let these onesies stare up at me from their blue shopping bag, as I would stare back I took these months to plan and think through how I would attack this quilt.
I’m so happy that I didn’t rush into cutting up the onesies. I’m so happy I took time to think through the material and structure and construction and plan.
I learned a lot through the process of making this quilt, so I’m hoping that my tips will not only encourage you to potentially make one yourself, but also keep you from making some pretty big mistakes.
Let’s get started.
Preparing and Saving
1|| Over estimate the number of onesies needed.
When I began going through the onesies Heather had saved for this quilt, my first thought was, “I am going to have so many onesies left over.” Boy was I wrong! The number of onesies needed will change from quilt to quilt and the types of onesies used. If you are using a lot of sleepers or pajamas with snaps or zippers, you will most likely be able to only use the back fabric.
2|| Sort your designs.
I kind of hit the jackpot with this quilt — Heather has some of the cutest onesies I’ve seen! It’s clear she had a tendency to buy stripes, skulls, blues, greys, and Ohio. I began by just sifting through the onesies, pulling out the ones that might be more difficult to use. (For example, a few onesies had pretend neck ties appliquéd to the front of the onesie and because it went up to the neckline, I wasn’t able to make a block from it unless I cut through the appliqué. Does that make sense?) I began to see the stripes theme very early on, so I immediately placed those in a pile of their own. I was so excited to see the stripe pile grow, as I knew it would really help to pull the quilt together having the consistency of them throughout.
I ended up with two piles — stripes and solids/prints/text. You might need to sort according to color, prints/solids, text/pattern — whatever themes you begin to notice!
3|| Plan your block size.
Originally, I thought I would create 4″ blocks — cut at 4.5″, sewn down to 4″ blocks. I quickly realized as I counted onesies and quilt size that I really needed to get my blocks a hair bigger, or I wouldn’t have enough onesies!
My final dimensions:
5.5″ squares cut –> sewn to 5″ squares
7 squares across by 9 squares down
roughly 35″ x 45″
*take note of the onesie sizes as well! I was unable to use a few of the newborn onesies because I wasn’t able to get a 5.5″ block cut from them.
Cutting the Blocks
If you read nothing else about this post — please read this step!! Looking back, this extra step feels like a bit of a “well duh” to me, but I’m so thankful I thought about it during my prepping steps…..or I would have been crying. Hard.
Think about the difference between baby onesies and quilting cotton with me for a moment. If you were to choose one characteristic that most obviously separates them — and you can’t say baby spit up — what would it be?
Hopefully your answer was the stretch. Baby onesies, tshirts, etc are made from a jersey fabric — some of your onesies might be 100% cotton and some might be a blend. But the bottom line is that they stretch. They don’t hold their shape like quilting cotton does. Now imagine making a crisp block quilt with fabric that doesn’t hold it’s shape…. uh yeah. Now you see why I would have been crying!
1|| Gather your stabilizing supplies.
To keep our stretchy baby onesies nice and square, you will want to use a lightweight interfacing. I used Pellon Fusible 906F, but the Pellon 911FF will work too. The 911FF is definitely a bit stiffer, so I prefer the 906 — but it’s really a preference thing!
2|| Cut. Cut. and Cut.
Prepare yourself for a lot of cutting! Each onesie will essential be cut out 3 times:
Trim your onesies. Remove the seams, collars, sleeves, zippers, snaps, etc. You want to be left with scraps big enough to accommodate your square size.
Cut out the square size needed from your interfacing. (In my case, 5.5″ squares.)
Iron the interfacing to the wrong sideof your onesie fabric. For some onesies, this won’t matter, but for onesies with a right/wrong side, it’s very important to pay attention.
Cut the onesie down to the square size needed using your interfacing square as a guide.
Here are some of my favorite tools that make fabric cutting sessions a little more fun!
Sooner or later, you’ll have a stack of crisp squares! The interfacing makes or breaks the final outcome of this quilt — so as I mentioned before…
Don’t skip this step!
3|| Design the quilt layout
This step should be fun — so have fun! Again, think back to how you sorted your squares and work with your theme. But always be willing to go a new direction if your original plan just isn’t working. You might decide to make the blocks completely randomized, no theme, per se, at all. You might decide to rotate the stripes vertically — or rotate only a few? Just have fun with it. Walk away if you’re feeling a bit cross-eyed or delirious from staring and rearranged. Get a second opinion. Take a photo of it and sleep on it — how does it look to you the next day?
There isn’t a right or wrong way to design it — it’s really what you decide you like best!
4|| Fill in the gaps
I was a few short after cutting, cutting, ironing and cutting again, so after designing my quilt layout, I rearranged the design using the few extra onesie pieces I still had that were large enough for squares. I had to make a few newborn onesies just work, so I’d have enough for the entire quilt. I’ll say it again: over estimate the number of onesies needed! (My quilt is made up of 63 blocks… just to give you an idea!)
5|| Prepare your piles for sewing
Stack your block rows and label each row with a piece of paper or sticky note. You could use a fabric pen too, if you’d like. I work from left to right, stacking the previous on top of the next — the top of each stack is the left most block.
Pile your rows from top to bottom, as shown below.
Now we are ready to sew!
Piece your Baby Onesie Quilt Top Together
When piecing a quilt, you want to use 1/4′ seams. This is where it gets a little confusing in quilt-land. The 1/4″ seam that you hear, is really a seam that is just under 1/4″ — you need to accommodate for the thickness of the fabric and pressing it flat within that 1/4″. For a square block quilt like this one, that scant-1/4″ seam isn’t that important — so if you’re a beginner, let’s just focus on sewing them straight! If you want to practice that scant-1/4″, this is also a perfect time to do that. Just stay consistent in your seams, or your squares won’t line up when we sew the rows together!
Enter, one of my favorite sewing machine feet:
I love the guide on this foot! It really helps beginners sew a straight, 1/4″ seam. When your fabric touches the guide, that is typically a full 1/4″ seam. To achieve a scant-1/4″ seam with a foot like this, you will line your fabric up along the edge of the foot — the right side of the right most ski-like-toe shape.
I have no idea what the technical name is for that… whoops! ha.
1|| Piece the Squares into Rows
Beginning with the top square in your stack, take the second square and line up right sides together. We will sew the rows first, press seams, and then sew the rows together! Simply work your way from left to right, piecing each square of the row together until you reach the note indicating a new row. Set the first row aside — with the label! — and continue with each subsequent row.
You end up with a gorgeous stack like you see below.
2|| Piece the Rows together
Before we sew the rows together, we need to press our seams. I’ve become a believer in pressing my seams open in almost every quilt I make now. For the longest time, I thought that was a big no-no, but I’m learning that there are really no rules in quilting. Pressing the seams open keeps your lines so much straighter, and I think it’s worlds easier to make those corners match perfectly!
After pressing your seams, we will sew Row 1 to Row 2. Even with the interfacing, you are probably going to see some warping with a few of your onesies — you might have to cheat some of your points just slightly, or sew slow and ease the larger edge in very carefully.
You can use pins if you’d like, but I like to work from square to square. I begin my seam, and then I immediately focus on the approaching corner. I line them up. I do a quick happy dance if everything measures perfectly, and I look at which square is perhaps a hair larger and needs to be carefully worked into that seam.
After working from top row to bottom row. Go press those seams open! Don’t forget to iron.
3|| Create your Quilt Sandwich
Pick out backing fabric for your quilt, and cut the batting down to size. You want your batting to be a little bigger than your quilt top….and your backing to be a little bigger than your batting.
I’m a spray-baster – well, I used to be! – but you can use pins if you want too!
At this point, before basting your layers together, you could also look for long-arm quilters in your area to do the quilting portion for you. In my opinion, I think this quilt is a great way to jump right into quilting on your home machine — simple is better, because it lets the onesies be the focus!
4|| Decide on your Quilting Lines and Design
I opted to quilt simple diagonal lines through the striped onesie squares. Initially, I planned on sewing the diagonal through the solids/print blocks too, but I didn’t want to sew through the onesies with a featured image (Ohio, Little Man, U of Toledo, etc.). I used my favorite trick: painters’ tape.
Simply lay your quilt sandwich out on a clean, hard surface and lay down the tape where you want your seam to be. You’ll need to decide what side of the tape you will sew on — each of us will have a preference! You can put down a few pieces of tape, and then move those pieces after you’ve sewn them.
This step of the quilt will be made mucheasier with a walking foot — if you don’t have one, they are a bit more expensive than other sewing feet, but worth the investment. I rarely take mine off!
(Be sure to check compatibility with your sewing machine! While these generic feet with great with most machine brands, some brands will only work with feet of the same brand!)
Continue working your desired pattern throughout your quilt!
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A few patterns to get you started:
Stitch in the Ditch — sew along the edges of your quilt squares. From the front, there won’t be visible seams, but on the back you’ll have a 5″ grid.
1/4″ from each seam — sew 1/4″ from all of your square seams. You’ll end up with a border on your existing squares and fun design on the back.
Stripes! Sew either vertical or horizontal stripes throughout your quilt. I recommend spacing them at least 2-4″ apart, and then continue “half-ing” those stripes until you get to your desired width.
The sky is the limit — have fun!
Binding your Quilt
Before adding the binding, you will need to square and trim your quilt. Just as I mentioned with pressing seams, I’m learning that everyone squares and trims their quilts for binding very differently! I use the cutting tools I have listed at the beginning to get my corners nice and square, and then I move my way around the quilt, trimming off the excess backing and batting. Hopefully this quilt is easy for you to trim and square — if done carefully, it should be!
Pick out your binding fabric — or use bias tape if you’d like. I cut my strips 2.5″ inches, but you can vary that width depending on how thick you want your binding to be.
And there you have it — a finished Baby Onesie Quilt! I love how it turned out — and it kind of makes me want to go through Harlow’s onesies and make one for her! Especially now that we are having a boy!
Fun details…
I was reminded again why I so rarely take on custom orders — I enjoy them way too much, and I spend way too much time on them! I’m so happy I was able to do this quilt for this special guy though — and I’m so happy to be able to share what I learned with you! I think I did one search before I dove in, and was disappointed with the first few images that popped up, so I called it a day and decided to just attack it the Kacia way. :)
I hope this walk-through helps you create a onesie (or t-shirt!) quilt of your own! Please let me know if you have any additional questions or tips — or something to add! If we don’t help each other out, that is just silly.
Happy Wednesday! It’s raining here…and that makes me sad. But it looks like we’ll be cuddling on the couch and watching the news while we eat breakfast — not a bad morning at all!
Goodness, I’ve had this post in various stages of completion for the past few weeks — but I’m finally getting around to finishing it for you all. I shared a few sneak peeks of the Cargo Duffle bags that my mom and I made while they were visited at the beginning of May. The bag is a design and pattern from Anna of noodlehead — and it’s a available here.
Ironically, Anna lives really close to where I grew up, so she actually taught a class at the local quilt store on the Cargo Duffle bag. My mom didn’t attend the class, but a friend did, and she graciously lent my mom her finished bag for us to look at while we constructed ours. I’m sohappy we had it, because it affirmed the changes I’d already been thinking of making.
If you read reviews of the Cargo Duffle online, you’ll hear a unanimous “love the bag, be warned if you are a beginner.” You definitely need to have some sewing experience and pattern reading under your belt. The actual construction of the bag is pretty simple — it’s all rectangles for the most part, so you don’t need to worry about curves or anything like that.
I would say the thing that was the most confusing/unclear for me was the measurements of the pieces after you quilt the panels. You can cut the fabric, batting and canvas a bit larger than her original dimensions, but then after you quilt them, make sure you trim them back down to the size of the original fabricdimensions. I was confused about the batting being cut smaller than the fabric and canvas. I believe Anna was intentional about this measurement, so you have less fabric/thickness to your seams and to accommodate for shrinkage during quilting, but it won’t be the case if you cut your fabric a little big before quilting and trim back down. Perhaps I read that note and instructions all wrong, which could very well be the case with the pregnancy brain I have going on!
I’m rambling, but bottom line — make sure all of your panels are the correct dimensions after you’ve quilted the pieces.
A quick note about quilting! Be sure to read through the instructions before you just quilt every panel…or you’ll be ripping up or recutting new pieces. The bottom “accent panels” are really just that — as you can see, I didn’t change the color of mine, and I could have skipped them all together, but I liked the seam that shows.
Okay! So on to a few of the changes I made to my bag!
Expanding the Width of the Cargo Duffle
I was so happy to have a bag to look at as I was preparing to cut my fabric pieces, because I knew I wanted more of a square cylinder shape than what I was seeing from photos. Instead of cutting my pieces to the dimensions in the pattern, I changed them to the following:
BOTTOM GUSSET: 9″ x 30.5″
ZIPPER GUSSET: 4.5″ x 27.5″
I’m so happy I made this change! I love that it increased the size of my duffle, so I’m able to use it as a true weekender bag or a carry-on. ….or maybe I’m just an over-packer. :)
Peltex 72 in the Bottom Gusset
In looking at the completed bag, I was going a bit crazy by how the bag didn’t hold it’s own shape.
I know. My mom kept reminding me that I won’t be walking around with an empty bag…..
But still, I wanted a bit more structure to my bag. So the change I made was as follows:
Cut the Pellon 72F Peltex to the final length of the bottom gusset seams — Anna factors in a 1/2″ seam allowance, so cut a length of 29.5″.
Sandwich in this order to quilt: Canvas, Peltex, Batting, Fabric. By layering in this order you will 1) get a nicer looking quilted look on the outside of your bag 2) the batting will cover the Peltex when you sew the zipper gusset to the bottom gusset.
I will warn you: you will be sewing through quite a bit of fabric when you finally put the bag together! I would have a few new needles on hand for your machine!
And see the final result? An empty bag that has structure. Voila!
Exterior Zipper Pocket instead of Cargo Pockets
I know by removing the cargo pockets, I maybe can’t call my bag the Cargo Duffle anymore, but I just wasn’t totally in love with the cargo pockets. From photos being posted of completed bags, the pockets always seemed to look the most “homemade” to me, and they just didn’t fit the look I was going for.
I actually will be posting a tutorial next week on how I did my zipper. I’m not a fan of the zipper tape showing, like most tutorials teach, so I came up with a new way. Since I completed my bag, my mom found another way to do the zipper as well, so I will play around with that technique and share with you all as well!
You can see my pocket lining before I lined my Cargo Duffle (another change I made). So if you’re thinking about adding a zipper to your bag, you might want to think about lining your bag as well.
Canvas Webbing instead of Fabric Handles
I was really torn about the handles for my Cargo Duffle — I considered leather, the coral used for the exterior, canvas webbing along with fabric… ugh. So many options!
I wanted a really simple final duffle bag, so I’m extremely happy with my choice. My mom used fabric for hers and they turned out beautifully — but it definitely took time and precision to get the straps even as they involve a lot of folding and layers. You’ll love the final outcome, so just keep trucking along! Promise. :)
Speaking of leather, I did also add a small tab of leather at the ends of each zipper. It was clear that there would be a small gap in the large zipper, and I just love the look of the edges having something more. You could use the same exterior fabric of an accent fabric to do the same. Just cut a small square, iron a clean edge and sew onto your zipper ends.
Lining and an Interior Zipper
I kind of thought I would end up lining my bag, but when I added the external zipper it solidified that decision. I found this fabric on a whim at JoAnn Fabrics, and while I can sometimes be a fabric snob, I fell in love with it and the color match was pretty spot on! (My bag exterior is Robert Kaufman Kona Solid in Coral — it’s almost red, but not. I love it.)
The lining was super easy and a breath of fresh air to only sew through 2 layers of cotton versus the bulk of the Cargo Duffle! It was like the icing on the bag-creation-cake. (wow, I am such a dork.)
I cut out the lining pieces the same dimensions listed on the pattern for the Quilting Cotton for the following pieces:
Front/Back
Bottom Gusset — don’t forget to use modified dimensions if you choose to widen your bag
Zipper Gusset
Sew together just like you would the bag, except you won’t have a zipper, so just hem the zipper gusset pieces back. You’ll stuff this lining bag into your Cargo Duffle — making changes to the seams or zipper hem as needed.
Given the bulk of the bag, you’ll probably want to hand sew the lining to the zipper seam, as you can see in the photo above. I pinned it in place, and then used the ladder stitch to sew into place. (I think it’s called the ladder stitch…) I love how I was able to cover up the zipper seam, and give the lining a really clean edge.
Here is where the width of your bag will make a difference. I found that because I’d created such a squared off top for my Cargo Duffle, my lining sagged quite a bit. It was especially obvious on the side with the inside zipper…and I didn’t even have anything in it yet.
I started by hand sewing the corners of the lining in place, but I ended up ripping that out. I found it was easier to pin the lining in place and machine sew along one of the quilt lines on the exterior of your bag. I chose a quilting seam about 1″ from the top-side seam of my bag and just went the length of the top of my Cargo Duffle bag. Now the lining doesn’t droop or sag like it was before.
(My mom didn’t widen her bag at all, and found she didn’t need to tack the corners of her bag in at all — so it’ll probably depend on the width of your bag and just personal preference!)
So there you have it! My modified Cargo Duffle.
I absolutely love how it turned out, and I’m dreaming up all sort of bags I want to design and create. I guess I’m on a bag kick of sorts! If you couldn’t tell from my abundance of Even Better Box Bags…
We took a quick trip last weekend to Andy’s family cabin, and I was so excited to finally get to pack in my Cargo Duffle! I of course paired it with more of my favorites —
And of course I had a few Even Better Box Bags inside my duffle — including the one I made the the day before while Harlow was napping! I honestly loathe packing, so having pretty and coordinated bags helps me smile while I do it!
It’s the little things, right?
What are you working on creating right now? What is inspiring you? What questions/tutorial requests do you have for me?
xo
Anna has no idea who I am, nor does Robert Kaufman. I was not paid to make this bag or write about it, I just think it’s a great bag, and I love the changes I made to it. xo!
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